The Travel Box
A6-Plastic Transport Box in Large One thing I wanted before I 'adopted' a hawk into my family was to have a safe, and hopefully comfortable, travel box for it that fitted into my car properly. I used to be a Range Rover owner and in that it would have been just too easy but I have updated and gone to a super efficient hybrid. My newer, lower, streamlined ultra economical thing really doesn't have any nice flat places to put something large and boxy. However I did notice that it had the standard 'Isofix' baby seat fixing points on the rear seats. I reasoned that I must be able to do something creative with them for my new baby.

Seat as purchased The extracted ISOFIX mechanism The bare mechanism in the car The initial baseplate before the tapers were screwed on.
Let's start with the target hawk box as I'm definitely not making that. Steve at Sussex Falconry said nice things about the products from Falconry Fabrications and he used them himself. Getting the right size was obviously the critical thing to be both hawk and car friendly so this one is rated as big enough for a female Harris Hawk by being 63.5cm tall, 43cm wide and 51.5cm deep (Coke can for scale). A few checks revealed that if it faced the car door it wouldn't actually much of a problem. However it had to be securely fastened and kept upright. That would be a bit more of an engineering challenge.

The general rule that I have developed over the years is that if you want to build a complex mechanism that you're not planning on selling then you first try and find somebody else who has already done it well and use theirs. With this in mind I bought a used child's car seat with all the testing approvals on EBay (a Maxi-Cosi Cabriofix Car Seat with Isofix Base). Then I gutted it like a rat in the hawk food tray for its Isofix mechanism. The two yellow ends are the lock-in claws that engage into the Isofix mounting points in the car giving a child safety approved level of solidity and the release button is on the end of the tube reaching forward with a nice colour change indicator in the button to reassure you it is fully engaged. I kept the release mechanism pretty much 'as is' because that put the control right where it was easy to get at and check it was engaged and not something behind the box to try and check.

The next real snag was attaching the box to the mechanism. This part is normally surrounded by its plastic case which is pretty solid but I wanted to bolt it to a piece of plywood. I went for wood rather than metal as welding up plates would make the end result too heavy to handle. There were two nice tapped bolt-holes in the rear cross arm but that is loose in the fore-and-aft direction so I wanted some proper bolts but this is box section and too thin to tap. The solution I settled for was M6 bolts with a 15mm hole in the other side of the box section to get a slender socket through and nylock nuts. Not ideal but it provided enough rigidity.

Cutting the levelling tapers locking bars rearward slots pip pin fastener on modified hinge pip pin locked in
I removed the seat's leg that supported the button end of the mechanism even though it would have added even more stability as it could easily become a serious 'in the way' problem installing and removing things. Sadly in the sort of accident that that was designed to protect against the hawk, loose in its box, will probably get thrown about badly but getting a hawk to wear a seatbelt is just not going to happen. For normal 'social and domestic' travel we just need to keep things stable.

The next stage was to make a level 'table' for the box to sit on. This has to be the full size of the box as its bottom is recessed and it sits on its edges. The slope of the seat is taken out with some tapered wooden blocks between the baseplate and the table. These parts are liberally screwed together.

Installed Ready for access
To provide something to clamp the box to the table I fitted two 40mm x 3mm stainless steel bars to it that are set into the recessed base with the rest of the gap filled by some 7mm Ali plates so the bars are flush with the bottom of the box to minimise any stress. There are further stainless steel strips inside the box to act as a full width 'washer' to distribute the load and it uses M6 stainless bolts sawn off flush with their nylocks to minimise the things that stick into the box. The bars project about 5cms at the sides and on the left hand side, towards the rear of the car, engage in fabricated metal slots that provide positive location. What you do is place the box on the table, push it away from you so it locates against the back stop then push it sideways, towards the rear of the car, to run it up against the side stop. This slides the bars in their slots pretty painlessly.

On the other side, towards the front of the car, the attachments have to stay out of the way while the box is being slid about so I put the fixings on hinges so they swing away over the front and when they come back up they clamp in place with a pair of Zoot pip pin fasteners from the Hang Gliding toolbox. These delightful things have balls that stick out near the tip of their pin end that vanish inside when you push the button on top. They go right through the wood and engage in the stainless steel of the hinge below sandwiching the bar and the table.

Improved bar ends In use you had to be careful. Those bars originally stuck out like the mythical swords on Boadicea's chariot and it was a squeeze getting it through the door without scalping the upholstery or the paintwork. It was never going to go in with a hawk inside but, once installed, the box door opened fully so the passenger can mount and dismount at will. I had to resort to the angle grinder to round the ends of the bars into nice, safe semi-circles.

As you can probably tell I'm rather pleased with the way it came out. Deciding on the details of the design and sourcing the parts was probably more complicated than the actual execution, well provided you gloss over the angst of getting nice countersinks in stainless steel. However it is worth pointing out that all this messing about put another 75% on the price of the box.

Oh and yes, as observant people have pointed out, it is a Mercedes E300 so not actually the best choice for putting a big case into but, as you can see, it does have just enough headroom. The Falconry Fabrications box seems well designed to keep all the mess inside and my woodwork is protected by a couple of coats of marine varnish. Frankly the hawk makes less mess in my car than my wellies.

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 by Nigel Hewitt